Walking along the cobbled streets of Old Tbilisi, many tourists find themselves thinking: “How great it must be to live here! Indeed, living among ancient churches, old balconies and cozy cafes seems like a dream come true. But those who venture into the heart of the Georgian capital quickly realize that there is another side to the city beyond the postcard views and atmospheric ambience.
The architectural charm of the Old Town is undeniable. Waking up in a house whose walls recall the era of King David the Builder, working at a table with a view of the domes of Sioni, or sipping wine on a terrace with a panoramic view of the Narikala Fortress – these moments add a special meaning to life. Many foreigners who have settled here admit that they are willing to put up with inconveniences for the sake of such moments.
However, everyday realities make their own adjustments. Most of the houses in the historical center were built in the XIX – early XX century and kept “authentic” communications. In winter the cold penetrates through the old wooden frames, and in summer the thick stone walls turn the apartments into stuffy stone bags. The plumbing and electricity in these buildings often require major upgrades – water outages or sudden blackouts are commonplace.
Parking and transportation are particularly challenging. Narrow streets, never designed for the modern flow of cars, turn every trip into a quest. Many downtown residents abandon personal transportation altogether, switching to taxis or mopeds. But pedestrian access to all major attractions is a definite plus for those who appreciate city life.
Noise is another constant companion of life in the Old Town. Music can be heard in the courtyards of restaurants until late at night, and street vendors begin their work early in the morning. It gets especially lively during the tourist season, when crowds of visitors fill the narrow streets. For some, this gives life a special rhythm, while others have to get used to it or look for accommodation in quieter corners of the center.
The renovation and improvement of historic houses is an adventure in itself. All work must be coordinated with the Committee for the Protection of Cultural Heritage, it is forbidden to change facades and sometimes even the color of doors. The interior can’t be renovated at will either – many walls turn out to be load-bearing. But the result of this careful approach is the preservation of a unique atmosphere, for which many people actually settle in the old town.
The social environment here is special. Heritage Tbilisians who preserve the traditional way of life, young artists and designers who have opened workshops here, and foreign expats can live in the same courtyard. Such a mix creates a unique creative atmosphere, but requires a certain tolerance for cultural differences.
The price paradox of Old Tbilisi – real estate here is expensive, but the level of comfort is often inferior to modern neighborhoods. A square meter in a restored house can cost $3,000 to $4,000, and for that money you get historic walls, but not necessarily a modern kitchen or spacious bathroom.
Those who have lived in the old town for a few years will admit that the place is either undeniably fascinating or makes you look for a more comfortable place to live. But even when they leave, many retain a special connection to these streets. After all, to live in the historical center of Tbilisi is not just to have a roof over one’s head, but to be in daily contact with living history, to become part of the centuries-old cultural layer.
In the end, everyone makes a choice between romance and comfort. But those who consciously choose to live among the ancient walls get more than just a place to live – they get a unique experience that is impossible to get in any modern neighborhood. The main thing is to approach this decision with open eyes, understanding that along with old door handles and views of the fortress, you also get a whole set of everyday features that create the unique flavor of old Tbilisi.
